1996 GL1500 Carburetor Repair
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Go to: Carb separation.
This page: Carb overhaul.
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Remove the throttle valve:
Note the little raised notch on the cover, it is for the vacuum to actuate the valve. It must line up in this position when the cover is replaced.
Remove the 4 screws from the cover. Watch the spring, it will come flying out. Remove the spring. Then remove the throttle valve. Note for reassembly: when removing the throttle valve, notice that on the edge of the diaphragm there is a small loop of rubber. Notice in the grove that it sits in, there is a small notch for it to sit in. These must match up when you reinstall in order for the vacuum to properly open the valve.
This is the choke valve.
Loosen the black nut that I am pointing at, and lift the assembly out. You will have to lift on the fork at the same time to get it to disengage.
Now remove the bowl cover. 4 screws.
Here the float is removed. The pin is loose fitting and will slide right out. It is held in place when the cover is in place. The valve hangs from the metal tang. The float height is adjusted by bending the tang.
Here is the float and the valve.
This is the main jet. It comes apart in two pieces. You can break it down after you remove it, but pictured here it is broken down first.
Next remove the aluminum piece that bridges the jets.
The lower most arrow points to the low speed jet. The middle arrow points to the main jet housing. The uppermost arrow points to the float valve seat.
All three should be removed. To remove the float valve seat I needed to get a deep well 10mm socket and then shave down the outside on a bench grinder.
On the float valve housing there is a wire mesh screen on the other end. In my overhaul kit, the float valve seat didn't include a new mesh screen and the old screen didn't fit the new seat. So I reused the old seat.
Here a screw driver is being used to remove the idle jet. These two jets (pointed to by the yellow lines) are pressed in and are not to be removed.
These arrows point to the idle pilot screws.
Depending on what year the bike is, these require a special tool from Honda to remove. Part # 07MMA-MT3010B. About $45 as I recall. You will need it to remove the pilots for overhaul, and you will need it to adjust them once everything is installed. This tool has a sheath like part that goes around the shaft. It is separate, and it is not needed for the 1500. So if the dealer offers it, decline it.
On the other hand, some years the pilots were slotted and can be removed with a flat screwdriver.
The pilots when removed will have a spring, a small metal washer, and a small o-ring. the metal washer separates the spring from the o-ring. If the washer and the o-ring don't come out with the pilot, then fashon a little tiny hook out of the end of a paperclip and reach down in and pull them out.
If you haven't worked on carbs before, keep in mind, never seat the pilot with any force. the point is fine and can break off or otherwise be damaged. When removing the pilot, count the number of turns it takes to seat it, but only turn it in until it gently seats. This way when you reinstall it, you turn it in until it gently seats, then back it out that previous number of turns and it will be in the same position it was when you started.
Go to: Carb job summary page.
Go to: Carb removal from the bike.
Go to: Carb separation.
This page: Carb overhaul.
Go to: Misc pictures.
Return to: Jim's Goldwing page.
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